Our Process

Once you have a clear idea of what you want from your bathroom project, we can begin to map out your design during a 90-minute consultation. During the consultation, we’ll discuss many aspects of your project, such as:

• Style: what kind of style you’d like to go for or an overarching theme you’d like to explore.
• Budget: what is the rough budget you are looking to adhere to? What should we prioritise, and where can costs be reduced if necessary?
• Lifestyle: tell us a little about yourself and how you’d like your bathroom to reflect that. Maybe you’re big on the perfect bathing experience and require a top-of-the-line spa bath, or perhaps you enjoy maintaining your appearance and will benefit from expansive cabinet space for all of your cosmetics.
• Goals: we can discuss the desired outcome for your bathroom projects and how our team can help you achieve results. Suppose you’re looking to improve asset value. In that case, we can discuss timeless and trendy design, or if you’re hoping to create a more peaceful aesthetic, we might discuss colour schemes and lighting that can lend themselves to your design. The sky is the limit!
• Timeline: discuss with us the timeline you’re looking for so we can assess how feasible that is and ways we can work together to make your project run smoothly and comfortably. We can also start the conversation on how we can work around your schedule.
• Maintenance: we’ll outline some basic standards of cleanliness that we uphold during our projects and on the worksite and discuss any concerns you might have about the general tidiness and safety of your space.
• Risk assessment: we can discuss any risks that may be involved during the construction process and how we can minimise them through the appropriate workplace health and safety procedures.
• Inspection: during the consultation, we will want to visit your property and view the room or space you’re looking to use for your project; this will help us determine an accurate cost.
• Energy-efficiency: we can discuss energy-efficient and water-saving alternatives for fixtures and lighting to help reduce bills and environmental impact.

The consultation will be our first conversation and a time for us to get to know each other; first impressions are everything! We’ll be happy to answer any questions you may have about our workflow and how you can get involved in the project.

Following your consultation with the TIC Bathrooms team, we can begin to put together a realistic quote for your bathroom project. A quote is essentially a price proposal document where we provide you with a detailed estimate of how much your project will cost. Some of the factors we’ll take into consideration include:

• Lighting: cost of selected lighting features.
• Fixtures: bathroom fixtures such as toilets, bathtubs, showers, tapware and such will be outlined and priced depending on their complexity and custom supply requirements.
• Labour costs: the cost of labour for all tradespeople, including skilled electricians, carpenters, plumbers, painters and more.
• Design and development costs: applicable fees for all architectural and engineering design required as well as floorplans, blueprints and independent research services.
• Permit acquisition: cost to acquire any permits or council approvals related to the project.
• Demolition: site preparation and relevant demolition work required for any requested structural changes.
• Structural changes: layout modifications and extensive structural work such as knocking down walls, ceiling replacements, window resizing, wall sheeting removal, insulation installation and sunken bath installations.
• Materials and finishes: cost of selected materials and finishes such as paint, tiling and wood finishes.
• Tiling: cost of splashback retiling and floor tile resealing.
• Heating and cooling: installation of convenient features such as underfloor heating.
• Windows and glazing: window installation, resizing, glazing and frame painting.
• Plumbing installation: disconnect and reconnect work by a licensed plumber.
• Wet sealing: complete Australian standard wet sealing with an accompanying certificate.
• Cabinetry and joinery: new cabinet features installed by a licensed carpenter.
• Electrical installation: power point, light switch and lighting replacement as well as complete disconnect and reconnect services.
• Interior decoration: full-service interior decoration following construction completion.
• Final clean-up fees: final site clean-up and maintenance as well as a standard warranty and one-month follow-up.

These inclusions will vary depending on the scope of your project, as will the price, with our bathroom packages starting from $20,000. The final quotation will also include all formal details such as client details, TIC Bathrooms details, research and planning documentation and a written description of the overall project. For those interested in reducing costs through independent fixture and fitting purchases, whilst this may save money in the short term, we advise against it as this decision can raise warranty issues. The team at TIC Bathrooms will choose all products through a total solution approach with assurances of assistance from us if problems arise.

Once you’re happy with the quotation we’ve given you, it’s time to take your inspiration and begin organising an extensive design and development plan. In this plan, we’ll cover a broad range of things such as:

• Client requirements: clarification of pre-discussed goals, inspirations, fees and desired outcome.
• Timeline: a full work schedule for all tradespeople needed to complete your project. This timeline will include deadlines and overall time frames anywhere from three to eight weeks, depending on the size of your project. We’ll also discuss access times suitable for you.
• Progress inspections: an outline of all provided progress inspection intervals and alternative digital progress update arrangements in the event you can’t be present for inspections.
• Materials: a complete list of materials, pricing, quantities and compliance standards, as well as a relevant colour palette and design brief with a detailed selection rationale.
• Proof of process: design materials including drawings, plans and sketches integral to the development of your bathroom concept.
• Scale plan: a floor plan done to scale to display the layout of your planned bathroom package accurately.
• Council approvals: confirmed council approvals for any extensive work required.
• Warranties: all required warranties for labour and materials.
• Contact details: multiple points of contact provided for the duration of the project.
• Workplace Health and Safety plan: a detailed outline of all appropriate procedures and guidelines our team follows, including a demolition schedule and safety plan.
• Cleaning standards: all site upkeep standards such as daily rubbish removal that are expected of our team.
• Recycling and waste management procedures: a fully detailed outline of all procedures followed by the TIC Bathrooms team.
• Site records: an outline of all daily records that TIC Bathrooms is responsible for providing.
• Licensing and certifications: all required licensing and certificates required by our team to participate in the construction of your project.
• Testing and inspection plan: outline of all quality and safety tests provided by TIC Bathrooms.

We’ll also include a checklist of approved features such as lighting, fixtures, tapware, heating and window and door selections. Overall, this document will outline and clarify all legal, administrative, financial and design-related requirements deliverable by TIC Bathrooms. This document may evolve throughout the project depending on the occurrence of unforeseen circumstances or additional client requests. Still, at its core, it serves as a clear written document guiding the project progression.

Depending on the nature of your bathroom project, we may undergo interior demolition services. Demolition services, also known as site preparation, involve the removal of structural features in preparation for plumbing installations, electrical installations and requested layout changes. This process can take anywhere from 1 to 7 days and may involve the removal of:

• Ceiling tiles
• Walls and wall sheeting
• Flooring
• Insulation materials
• Wiring

In some projects, demolition will involve a complete bathroom strip-out, allowing us to move your windows, doors, and bathroom fixtures easily. Professional demolition services are a valuable step in bathroom renovations and builds and ensure the minimisation of noise and air pollution. Extensive demolition experience is crucial when approaching complex situations such as removing load-bearing walls and asbestos.

Before commencement, TIC Bathrooms will attain any required permits and provide notifications to neighbouring residences in the event that demolition may be disruptive. We will also provide a detailed risk assessment, demolition schedule and safety plan. Following this, we will ensure all utilities are safely shut off in preparation for demolition. Finally, we will ensure that correct ventilation is in place to reduce chemicals and particulates in the air.

At this stage, demolition can begin with any fixtures or features you would like to retain stored in safe packaging and moved out of the area. We will then remove and dispose of any unwanted cabinetry or fixtures. Once all fixtures are removed, we can cap off all electrical and plumbing connections to prevent any potentially hazardous or damaging occurrences.

Generally, the next features to be removed are the doors, ceiling and flooring, followed by any insulation sealed within the structure.

Finally, upon completion of the demolition, TIC Bathrooms can begin a thorough site clean-up. TIC Bathrooms will follow all required cleaning, recycling and waste management procedures outlined in our planning phase throughout the demolition process.

A complete interior demolition provides the blank canvas we need to begin making your creative vision come to life.

Now that the space is completely clear of fixtures, walling and flooring, our team can begin the electrical and plumbing rough-in. A rough-in is tradie talk for a rough draft, where plumbing and electrical is placed and inspected before installation and finishing. This process takes anywhere between 1 to 4 days and allows our team to ensure that all wiring and plumbing is correct before sealing off within the walls. All rough-ins are directly informed by the architectural or engineering plans provided during our planning and development phase.

Though not as common, before your plumbing and electrical rough-ins, you may require a mechanical rough-in. A mechanical rough-in is dedicated to the installation of ductwork for a home HVAC system. This must be completed first, as ductwork will require the greatest dedicated space.

A plumbing rough-in will involve the placement and connection of water supply and drainage pipes. This process begins with waste and drainage pipes as they are large and inflexible regarding placement and organisation. Once the waste and drainage pipes are in place, we can start to install the water supply lines. These pipes will not be connected to fixtures until the fit-off later on, but at this stage, we will pressure test the overall plumbing installation to ensure it’s ready to sign off. Following an inspection and sign off, your plumber will cap all pipes off to reduce the potential of leaks or debris until the fit-off is completed.

Like the plumbing rough-in, the electrical rough-in will involve the placement and connection of electrical cables before sealing and fit-off. This rough-in also includes the installation and mounting of electrical boxes for lighting, fans and other outlets. This is completed following the plumbing rough-in as it is easy to place around any pre-existing ductwork and plumbing. Following completion, an inspection is done to determine that the work completed meets the required standard and is ready for the final wall installation and fit-off.

Professional rough-ins ensure that your piping and wiring are thoughtfully placed for the future of the project. Poor rough-ins can impact your bathroom’s aesthetic and functional value in the future and may even cause damage. At TIC Bathrooms, we employ multiple processes of evaluation and inspection to assure that our work is of the highest quality.

With the rough-in in place, work can begin on the foundations of your project, with major carpentry work such as:

• Frame construction: the frame is the bones of construction; a building frame is a steel or timber frame built to form the shape of your bathroom whilst supporting the overall structure. Framing commonly uses light or lightweight framing construction methods popular in Australia due to its affordable and flexible use of materials. Lightweight framing is achieved by erecting and connecting separate segments of framing into one whole structure.
• Window and door relocation: for a renovation or restoration without a complete demolition strip-out, we can still relocate windows and doors that may be affecting your ideal layout. This process is completed through careful consideration of the structural load and utility locations within your bathroom. Once we’ve determined the position of your relocation, we can support the load using a temporary wall and begin demolishing and framing the spot where our team will move your window or door. Once the framing is complete, the sheathing or drywall located on the other side of the wall is cut to make space for the window or doors final installation. In some scenarios, this process may also require the relocation of utility wiring.
• Wall and ceiling insulation: before sheeting and plastering the room, our team will install insulation within the wall and ceiling cavity. This is an essential step for bathrooms due to the presence of increased humidity and moisture. There are many insulation types sufficient for bathroom projects, such as foam, cellulose insulation and soy-based foam for a greener alternative. The chosen insulation will be cut down to size and installed tightly between the wall studs. Following this, we will install a vapour-diffusion barrier to reduce moisture penetration further.
• Pipe insulation: pipe insulation is a crucial component to how well your water retains its heat and is therefore given detailed attention. Before installation, the pipes are cleaned and prepared for insulation. The pipes are then completely enveloped in the insulation material, which is commonly foil, fibreglass or wool.

Overall, rough carpentry and insulation can take roughly 2 to 4 days, depending on the scope of your project.

Now that the frame has been built and all the insulation is installed, it’s time to begin sealing off the wall cavities. This is initiated through pre-sheeting and sheeting. Pre-sheeting primarily consists of checking the level and evenness of the bathroom walls in preparation for sheeting and plastering. Sheeting is then done by securing plasterboard such as plywood or drywall panels to the frame using adhesive and screws to create an even base for plastering. Sheeting is functionally and technically a wall, but plaster is applied for aesthetics, insulation and waterproofing purposes. Once the sheets are entirely secure, any gaps between them are sealed using tape and a layer of base-coat. A base-coat is also applied to any screw holes. Finally, before plastering the walls, we will dilute and apply a latex-based product known as PVA to prepare the walls and seal any porous surfaces.

When the walls are completely prepared and clean, we begin applying the plaster using multiple tools, including:

• Hawk board: also known as a hand board, a hawk board is a large flat board with a handle used for easily carrying and holding plaster.
• Trowel: a more commonly recognised tool in plastering, the trowel is a small flat handheld tool that comes in many shapes such as triangular, teardrop and rectangular. Trowels look similar to garden trowels that have been flattened down. This tool is used to smoothly apply and spread plaster.
• Corner trowel: a corner trowel serves the same purpose as an ordinary trowel but is simply shaped for use within corners, with a right angle shaped piece of metal attached to the handle.
• Floating tool: a rectangular float tool is similar in appearance to a trowel and will be used to even out the surface. The use of this tool varies on the independent tradespersons technique.
• Deviling float: serving as a finishing tool like the float, where the standard floating tool is used to even the surface, a deviling float is used to create texture on the plaster’s surface to help later applications adhere. This roughening is achieved through the design of the deviling float, which contains nails that protrude at each corner.

The process of plaster application is mostly a matter of patience and technique. There are generally three coats of plaster applied with the base, second and final coats. During and between these coats, the tradesperson will incrementally dry and smooth the plaster using a trowel. Finally, our tradespeople may use a deviling float to scrape the wall and create a better surface for the second coat of plasters adherence. Without this step, your tradespeople will be required to work quickly and ensure the first coat is still wet when moving forward to the next plastering stage. The second and final coats then follow similar to the first, except for the plaster being further diluted for a thinner consistency.

Once the plaster is dried, our team can begin to add the finishing touches, using targeted water application and a trowel and floating tool to even out the entire surface. Now we can move on to sanding and giving your bathroom its first pops of colour!

With the plaster fully applied and completely dry, it’s time to begin sanding to remove excess plaster and prepare the wall for painting. Our team will place a tarp before sanding, plastering and painting to reduce mess. The sanding process is done using sandpaper attached to a sanding block and is completed slowly to ensure no damage is done to the wall. Any trims, frames, fixtures or fittings that have been installed can be masked using decorator’s tape or masking tape to prevent messy paint drippings and allow the painter to cut-in at the end.

Now that the wall is fully present and prepped, it’s time to get to the fun part! Painting is one of the first steps to seeing your stylistic decisions come to fruition. The colour your bathroom is painted will depend on your independent design; however, some popular bathroom paint colours include pastel blue, pistachio, tan, mustard and lavender if you’re tossing up on ideas.

Once your colour has been selected and purchased, we’ll dilute a similarly coloured emulsion paint with water to create a mist coat also known as a primer. This solution prepares the surface for your topcoat of paint and can be substituted with a water-based primer. This primer will allow the topcoat to apply evenly to the surface and is applied using a paintbrush or roller. As a rule of thumb, primer and paint are applied to the ceilings first, followed by the walls.

After roughly 24 hours, the mist coat will have dried, and we can begin to apply the topcoat. The topcoat is the final colour you intend to have on your wall at the end of painting and may be applied more than once. A brush is used for the edges of the wall with a method called cutting-in, establishing a clean line in corners and the space around fittings and trims. Following this, a roller is used to cover the broader surface area The drying time for your paint will vary depending on the type of paint used, but generally, the first coat of paint will take around 30 to 90 minutes to dry. The second coat can then be applied from 4 to 24 hours after the first, again depending on the composition. Finally, there is a curing time where the paint will completely harden. Whilst the wall may become dry to the touch within an hour, any further mounting or work on the walls could require one to three weeks to ensure that each layer of paint is completely dry and resistant to scratching.

The final painting stage is a simple clean up, where we’ll remove the tape and any remaining debris from the area.

Now that the walls have been dealt with, we can get a start on your flooring. Before laying down any tiling, however, your floor must be appropriately prepared and screeded. Screeding is a process of base waterproofing and levelling in preparation for further work and floor finishes. Without this step being carefully and professionally completed, your bathroom is guaranteed to sustain water damage in the future.

We begin this process by cleaning the flooring of any dust or debris that may have fallen from prior demolition, plastering and general construction. Once the floor has been appropriately cleaned, we can begin applying a primer to the floor. A primer serves as a pre-treatment for your floor and adds higher levels of adhesion for later substrates. It can also help to regulate moisture levels further, which, as we know, is advantageous in a bathroom installation. The primer will generally be diluted and then applied using a trowel and/or roller. Following this, a sanitary silicone sealant is applied to all gaps for additional waterproofing and mould resistance. Silicone has a high elasticity level, making this material durable and insusceptible to wear and tear in the event of building expansion and movement.

With the floor wholly cleaned and prepped, our team can begin laying down the waterproof membrane, a watertight material designed to prevent water damage.

Waterproofing membranes can come in various types, categorised under sheet based or liquid applied membranes. True to its name, a sheet based membrane typically comes in a roll of material, which is then unrolled and installed on the surface. Alternatively, a liquid applied membrane is applied in liquid form using a spray and brush for application. At TIC Bathrooms, we use an Australian made product called Gripset 38FC (SBR Fast Cure Membrane), a highly durable liquid membrane. When applying Gripset, our team will use a roller or brush to apply it to the area, with masking tape to protect any areas not included in the application.

Once the initial waterproofing application is completed, screeding can begin. The actual material used in screeding is a pre-mixed or manually mixed concrete-like substance called screed. Before screeding is applied, we will ensure a clear idea of how much mixture is needed through precise measurements. A thin layer of screed is then poured into the space and levelled out using a float or trowel to create a smooth base for your final flooring. This application can also be compounded using manual compression methods to reduce the presence of air bubbles. Finally, all that’s left is for the screed to dry, which can take anywhere between 16 to 48 hours, depending on the screed used and the thickness of the application. In some instances, the screed may be left for up to one week to ensure that the material can withstand heavy loads. Following this initial drying period, it’s recommended that any further floor work be postponed for 28 days to ensure any shrinkage has been completed and does not impact later tiling applications.

Waterproofing a bathroom requires 100% professional work standards within Australia with strict regulations following the Building Code of Australia (BCA) and Australian Standards (AS 3740-1994). These standards dictate that:

• Shower floors must be entirely waterproof, and the shower walls must be waterproofed up to 1,800 mm high.
• Bathroom walls must be waterproofed up to 150mm high.
• The step down from a shower to the floor must be waterproof up to 100 mm high minimum.
• If the bathroom is on the second floor or higher, you must waterproof the entire bathroom floor.
• If the bathroom floor contains wood, you must waterproof the entire bathroom floor.

Failing to follow these standards will be severely detrimental to the longevity and safety of your bathroom installation. In fact, poor waterproofing is among the top three building defects in Australia, according to the Australian Master Tilers Association (AMTA).

Whilst there is an initial waterproofing phase applied to the flooring before screeding, there is more to waterproofing than the initial flooring application. Following the previous screeding step, a final waterproof membrane and waterproofing agent is layered before the tiling process.

For the walls, a water-resistant primer is applied to assist the adhesion of all the materials used. Once the primer is applied, a sanitary silicone sealant is used to fill any gaps, including space around extruding fixtures or the connection between the floor and wall. Similar to the waterproofing process for the floor detailed in Step 10: Floor Prep and Screeding, masking tape is used to allow a straight waterproofing edge, with the liquid waterproofing agent applied using a roller or brush. This first completed application will generally take 24 hours to dry and is often followed by two more coats of liquid waterproofing.

Once the walls are entirely waterproof, it can take up to five days to fully cure before any further tiling or finish work can be commenced.

Once your select flooring and walls have been appropriately prepped, screeded and waterproofed, our team can begin to lay down your hand-picked tiling. This process is the aesthetic cherry on top for your bathrooms base installation, where you can finally see the overall colour palette for your bathrooms paint and tilework in action.

Now that the floor and walls have completely dried, we can begin cutting tiles to fit the space using any number of straight and shape cuts. These cuts are done using a tile cutter or electric grinder and meticulously measured before beginning work. Generally, only the bottom row of tiles will need cutting when applying them to the wall; this measurement is found by measuring the height of each tile in increments from the ceiling downwards. Once there is not enough space for a tile between the floor and the last increment, this measurement is taken and used for cutting the bottom row of tiles.

When the correct amount of tiles have been calculated and cut, each tile is back-buttered. Back-buttering involves covering the backside of each tile with a cement-based wall and floor tile adhesive. Each tile is then pushed onto the wall, with regular lippage checks using a tile levelling system. Lippage is the difference in height between each installed tile and is extremely important in terms of aesthetics and trip-hazards when tiles are installed on the floor. The tiles are also spaced evenly using tile spacers which are small plastic objects used to ensure the grout is even. Once the tiling is complete, these spacers are knocked out or pulled out using pliers. This process is roughly the same for flooring, except for back-buttering, where adhesive is instead applied directly to the floor before the tiles are placed.

The tiles may require cutting to fit specific fixtures in terms of any drainage or extruding elements from the rough-in process. This is done through simple measurements and marking made by holding the tile against the fixture in question. These marks are then used as guidelines when cutting the tile using an angle grinder.

Once the tiles are entirely levelled and cleaned, the grout can be applied. Grout is a mixture of water, cement, and sand used between tiles for aesthetic and moisture protection purposes. The grout mixture is first combined and thickened into a firm consistency, ready for application. When applying grout to the walls, a protective drop sheet is laid to prevent splatters. The grout is then generously applied across the entire tiled surface using a float to distribute the mixture evenly. Once the grout has thoroughly dried, all excess amounts covering the tiles are wiped away using a wet sponge. Finally, the completely dried application is buffed out with a soft cloth for a professional finish. This grouting application is left for 72 hours to cure and dry thoroughly and is then followed by a sealing process detailed in the next step.

With the tiling and grouting out of the way, the final silicone-based caulk applications can be made to seal off major wet areas and protect your tiles from moisture damage and future cracking. Both silicone-based and acrylic caulk are sealants used for the same purposes; however, they are better suited to different home areas due to their independent material properties. As acrylic caulk is less prone to movement and can be easily painted over, our team will often apply it to the corners and edges of walls and ceilings before painting. Alternatively, silicone-based caulk is used in rooms with higher moisture levels and metal, glass, and plastic surfaces, making it highly suitable for sealing grout lines, baths, sinks, and general bathroom fixtures. Due to these properties, silicone-based caulk is the preferable sealant for a majority of bathroom applications.

Silicone-based are also used over grout lines to seal and waterproof the grout. This is done first by using carefully placed masking tape to protect the tiles. The sealant is then applied over the grout lines using a small brush. After drying for 30 minutes to an hour, the second coat of sealant is applied. Sealing grout lines is crucial to hygiene standards with the prevention of bacteria and mould. Finally, the sealant will need to dry before any further usage or work within the bathroom is available, with drying times between 46 to 72 hours depending on the location of the sealant.

Joins between tiles, walls, floors and ceilings will preferably use a silicone sealant chosen with the appropriate colour to match your tile selections. First, the sealant is applied using a caulking gun, with the nozzle smoothly running along the join. Once there is a generous sealant application, we carefully run a simple tool over the area to smooth it and clean up any excess.

If a bathroom project includes a renovation or restoration requiring no demolition or restructuring, we may need to remove the old caulk before applying the new caulking. Following the complete application of your bathroom caulking, the site will require 24 hours for the sealant to fully cure.

All of the significant construction and wall finishing should be complete by now, and we can move forward to any cabinetry or joinery you want for your dream bathroom. Often used interchangeably, the two areas have slight differences but can be used for many similar applications. A cabinet maker specialises in bathroom vanities, and cabinetry whilst a joiner works exclusively with raw structural materials, forgoing nails and building window frames, door frames and cabinets.

Your carefully selected features may be custom-crafted or purchased from our list of extensive retailers ready for installation based on plans made during the development phase. With your vanity or cabinetry readily available, our team will first ensure the appropriate fit and placement. They will then use a hole saw to create space for any drainage or connection required, careful not to damage the material. Once the vanity and cabinetry are appropriately lined up and marked, the cabinet will be drilled into the wall studs and secured using screws. The countertop is then attached to the top of the cabinet using a silicone sealant. During this process, any doors and drawers are generally removed to make space for any alterations or work required.

The vanity is a major aesthetic centrepiece to any good custom bathroom installation, so it’s important that it meets all your expectations.

The other often overlooked detail is the window selection. Choosing a good window style and framing material can help improve your bathroom’s insulation and aesthetics. Before installing the new window, your joiner will first measure the opening to ensure an accurate fit. We then install a window stop to prevent the window from sliding or moving. Following this, your hand-selected window is snugly secured into the opening using a combination of silicone and/or anchoring screws. Finally, any trims or moulding that you have selected are added to the completed installation.

Joiners will also frame and hang any doors you have selected for your bathroom. This process begins with a door jamb, which is a supportive structure used for the durability of your door. The door jamb is most easily identifiable as where the hinges and striker plate are placed, which are crucial to opening, closing and locking your doors. A joiner will work to make sure that the door is perfectly in line with your wall and functionally sound whilst installing the hinges, locking mechanism, doorknob, door frame and door trim.

Another tradie term, fit-off, refers to the final stage of technical work, with all the plumbing, electrical and general fittings installed during this stage. Some of the most extensive installations that our team will complete include:

• Toilet installation: the space will be carefully measured and cleaned before the toilet is then lowered onto brass bolts, a watertight wax ring and the closet flange and secured to the floor. The closet flange is a slotted ring that prevents the toilet from shifting and is placed around the toilet drain at the base. The wax ring then cushions the space between the flange and the toilet, creating a watertight seal. Once the toilet is fixed to the floor, we may need to install the water tank separately, depending on the toilet model. The main water supply will then be fully connected and tested for leaks, and the toilet seat will be attached.
• Tap/mixer installation: depending on your design, a tap or mixer will be installed, with a mixer referring to a faucet that can access both a hot and cold water supply from the single spout. Due to this, the installation of the mixer can be slightly more complex. The mixer uses two separate hoses for the hot and cold water supplies, fitted with water-tight seals over the end of each. They’re then fed through the vanity and cabinetry and attached to a threaded rod using a stabilisation ring, tightening seal and tightening nut. Finally, each hose is attached to the hot and cold water outlets and tested for leaking and functionality.
• Sink installation: installing the sink into a recessed countertop involves aligning and connecting the drainage and securing the sink using silicone caulking.
• Shower installation: your shower unit, screen and doors will depend on the style of shower you go with, but generally, our team will fit the shower in the following order. Firstly, your plumber will drill both pilot and fixture holes in preparation for the shower installation. They will then move the shower unit into place and attach it to the wall using any screws or nails needed. The shower doors are then secured and tested for usability. Finally, the shower pan will be fitted into the bathroom, lined up with the drain pipe and levelled appropriately to the ground. Once the shower pan is in place, the drain cover is attached, and the entire shower installation is caulked.
• Bathtub installation: a bathtub installation can vary depending on the type of tub chosen and whether a sunken bathtub has been planned for your custom bathroom project. The plumbing drainage and tapware will be connected to the plumbing established from our rough-in, similarly to previous water and drainage connections. Securing and safely waterproofing the tub are the most crucial steps of a bathtub installation and will generally be achieved using a combination of mortar, flange installation and nails.

Other features that the fit-off will include are:

• Power outlet connection
• Light switch installation
• Smart technology installation
• Light attachments
• Shower screen installation
• Mirror installation
• Towel rail installation

We’ve made it! By now, everything should be installed, polished off and functioning. Unfortunately, construction is not a neat activity, so we’ve got a dedicated step for cleaning up your bathroom ready for your happily ever after. Whilst our contract and brief already detail a regular cleaning schedule, we’ll do one final pass over to ensure that all of the dust and debris that may have accumulated is entirely removed. Any materials or old fittings will then be disposed of according to the most efficient, economic and environmentally friendly practices as outlined in our contract. A final clean-up will include:

• Cleaning and vacuuming floors
• Wiping down the interior and exterior of any windows
• Wiping down the framing and trim of the windows
• Sanitising and cleaning all plumbing fixtures
• Cleaning mirrors
• Dusting and wiping wall baseboards or trimming
• Wiping down walls
• Cleaning doorknobs, doorframes and light switches
• Removal and disposal of all construction trash and tools

Once the area is deemed sufficiently clean, we’ll begin preparing for handover. Handover is the finish line for your project and the phase where we pass on all information and certifications that you need, to ensure that your project has been completed to the highest standard. During the handover, you will receive:

• All construction certificates confirming sufficient and up to date testing.
• Final inspection confirmation and approvals
• All operation and maintenance manuals as well as future inspection dates for any relevant features in your bathroom
• A clear outline of future defect reporting procedures and arrangements with the contractor
• Any keys or spare fittings
• Service provider documentation for all connected utilities
• Health and safety files detailing any potential risks
• Warranties for all relevant features

Now all that’s left is to fill your space with beautiful interior decorations! You might consider using things to elevate your design like unbranded soap dispensers, small functional pieces of furniture, splashes of green using indoor plants (fake is fine!) and bright patterned shower curtains. Have fun; this is your space!